March 1-July 3, 2005
Sailing the Islands of Hawaii
1,105 nautical miles covered.
(5,545 miles since we left
Seattle in 2004 )
Previous logbook: Seward
We arrived in Hawaii on the first of March, after a very nice visit
with Frankie's parents in Spokane.
Starting in early March, Frankie kept a diary/log of our
adventures. Hope you enjoy reading about them!
Ray writes: although we arrived on
March 1st, Frankie didn't get going on the log/diary until the
5th. We rented a car for a week when we arrived at the
and drove around quite a bit during the next few days. We
awhile getting used to the heat (after all it was more than 90
Alaska when we left!) We also spent time swimming, reading
generally relaxing after our (usual) difficult Alaska winter
because of all the problems with rentals). By the 5th, when
Frankie begins her diary, we were nearly aclimatized, and starting
look foreward to getting out on the water.
Goofed off most of the day. Had salads from Wendy's for
lunch. Drove up to the North Shore where we bought
t-shirts. Dinner was garlic shrimp and rice. Took a
turn going back but got straight. Too windy to go swimming so
Richie played in the sand while Ray stayed with Karen in the car
she is still sick. Stopped for more salads on the way back to
Ko Olina marina.
Finally a calm morning so we put on the main & jib, hoisted and
washed them and the deck. Went to sam's Club for provisions in
the afternoon. Had a hot dog and Richie had pizza at their
since we had a light breakfast. Went to dinner with Pat &
Gordon Wood off the Orion (they are the ones who had kept an eye on
boat all winter) at a restaurant near the golf course named
Roy's. Ray and Richie took a shower at the marina in the
Decided to have breakfast at McDonalds. Bought groceries and a
coloring book at the store then drove to the North Shore to an egg
dealer. Unfortunately they are mainland eggs rather than fresh
we didn't get any. We did stop at a couple of fruit
Still have big waves up there. Dinner was teriaki chicken
Lounged around the boat until mid-morning when we drove to Brent's
house for lunch of turkey sandwiches, fruit and chips. After a
nice visit we all went to Goodwill. We bought a mug, muffin
vases and sandals. We left early afternoon but got caught 3
in a nasty traffic jam. We were very hungry so we wandered
looking for a restaurant for dinner. Finally found an Outback
Steakhouse and had steaks and yummy ice cream sundays for
dessert. A last nice dinner before returning the car tomorrow.
Went to breakfast at McDonalds then went to K-Mart to get airtight
containers for flour, sugar, etc. After getting gas, Ray took
kids and I back to the boat then he went to return the car. He
took a bus back because Brent was busy so it was late afternnon when
Ray writes: Final gas-up.
Dropped Frankie, Richie and Karen off and went to West Marine for
parts, checked out Keehi Lagoon for moorage. Returned the
car and caught a bus back to the boat (45 minute wait for the bus,
hour bus ride, 45 minute walk to the boat). We had macaroni
cheese in the cockpit for dinner. Bed 9:30.
Spent most of the day doing 4 loads of laundry. Ray spent most
that time finishing the 500 hour overhaul on the engine.
I was going to go to the beach late afternoon but spent the time
visiting a couple who are planning a trip up the Inside Passage this
summer. Baked bread in the morning. Did more laundry and
washed a couple blankets this afternoon.
Baked banana bread this morning with the last banana. Went to
harbor office to talk to RD and let them know we will be leaving
tomorrow. Stopped at the store for cold drinks because it is a
hot day. This evening was a pot luck. I cut half the
bread into small pieces and brought that. Nice group get
together. Afterward we had Ella (age 4) and Trey (age 12) come
over to watch Loonie Toons with Richie while we chatted with Ella's
March 13: Ko Olina to Keehi Harbor [17.9 knautical miles, 20.6
Got up early and prepared the boat to leave. There were
all around making Ray nervous about getting away from the
Gabrielle gave us 2 bottles of soda before we left. We were
and the wind behaved so we got out without trouble. We motored
the fuel dock, filled up, threw out the trash. 2 squalls came
so we wited for them to pass and I bought 2 teriaki chicken and rice
lunches from the deli. Finally we were off. We sailed
from the dock as the harbor staff came out to wave goodbye.
has been a great place to stay. We will miss it but it is time
move on. We had a great sail. Didn't use the motor at
until getting to Keehi Lagoon marina. We need to try having
hull scraped soon. We arrived around 4:30 and tied to the dock
be inspected tomorrow then tidied up the boat.
March 14: Keehi Harbor to Waimanalo [26.9 kts, 30.9 statute]
Nate, his sister Jess, his parents Jim and Pam, and Katy were
to get here at 10 am but it was after 11 when they actually
arrived. We stowed their stuff and were sailing before
noon. It was fairly rough but we had quartering or following
for the worst of it. Nice sunny day again. Good sailing
wind 15-20 knots but since we haven't had the hull scraped we were
doing 7-9. Nate, Jess and Jim each had a turn at the
The wind abruptly shifted just before Diamond Head and we stalled
before getting the sails set again. We went around to a bay on
the windward side. The book says once past the reef you can
anchor anywhere so we chose a spot and dropped the anchor. We
were deciding to eat or go ashore when 2 police cars drove up on the
beach. Ray rowed over. Turns out during the week the
military use that area. We had to move a few hundred yards
and drop anchor again. No big deal, just wish there was some
mention of it in the book. The Olesons decided since Pam was
slightly seasick and it was a nice night they would sleep on
deck. We brought out the 2 mattresses and bedding.
was 2 big sandwiches, grapes and chips they brought. Everyone
asleep by 8 pm.
We had oatmeal for breakfast. Everyone was up by 7. Ray
Jim took a bus to own to get their car. Nate rowed them to
and had some trouble getting through the shore breakers getting back
the boat. We sunbathed, sang, and relaxed all morning.
guys arrived around 1 pm with hot dogs, buns and baked beans to have
with my potato salad for lunch. After lunch they packed their
stuff in plastic bags and loaded them in the dinghy. Nate,
and Jim swam ashore while Pam and Ray went in the dinghy. Nate
lost an oar in the water getting to shore picking up Jim and Ray but
got it back. We had leftovers for dinner then went to bed
early. It was nice to have company onboard. I think
everyone had fun, even Pam who was seasick. Katy got a
sunburn. I looked at their sunscreen. It was only SPF
4! The others are red in places too. We use 30 and still
get tanned, just takes a bit longer and usually don't get burned
it wears off or don't put enough on.
16: Waimanalo to Keehi Harbor [26.9 kts, 30.9 statute]
Spent a lazy morning on the boat. Did dishes, read and tried
take a nap in the afternoon. We were just getting ready to
dinner at 6 pm when Ray noticed the boat had swung around opposite
wind. He went out and checked. Sure enough we lost our
anchor. Apparently the rope wrapped around a coral and wore
through. We pulled what was left of the rope aboard, started
motor and put up the jib then headed back to Keehi. It was a
calmer than when we sailed over. We debated raising the main
that sounded like too much work and went with motor and jib.
arrived at 11:30, tied to the dock and went to bed. It was a nice
even if the reason wasn't. The lights off Waikiki and downtown
Honolulu were pretty to see from sea. The buoys for the harbor
entrance channel were a bit hard to distinguish from the shore
however, the range was nicely lit and easy to follow in.
The Harbormaster inspected the boat this morning and gave us trash
oil placards before allowing us a morring ball. Ray arranged a
diver to scrape the hull today. The harbor said we could stay
to the dock for this and while Ray got parts and a new anchor from
Marine. The diver arrived late morning and took over an hour
scrape off the hull. He also sealed a crack in the keel and
replaced the zincs. Ray then walked to West Marine. He
a new galley fresh water pump, anchor, chain and related
One of the store emplyees drove him back. I took a
Ray worked on the anchor and visited a man on the dock while I
dinner. Ray saw a rat so we decided to move to the mooring
ball. After dinner I rowed ashore to try calling the Olesons
about breakfast and fill the water bottles. The mooring ball
bit closer to the airport so it is noisier. One jet woke us
up in the middle of the night. I washed the deckc while the
was scraping the hull. The new expensive brush works
Got off stuff the other one missed, yet didn't scratch.
Fianlly reached the Olesons in the hotel They are meeting us
lunch. Jim picked us up at noon. We went to a restaurant
the Ala Moana Shopping Center where we had great hamburgers and
bar. After lunch Ray and Richie went with Jim and his daughter
Jess to a computer store while Pam, Katy, Nate, Karen and I stayed
the mall. Pam decided we needed an umbrella stroller for Karen
from sears. Katy and Nate left to do their own shopping.
the way to Sears, we stopped at Baby Gap. Pam bought Richie a
shirt and shorts but didn't like the girl clothes. At first we
only saw big strollers. Then we found baby clothes and spent a
long time finding outfits for Karen before I finally found what we
come for--an umbrella stroller. pam bought the stroller and
several outfits for Karen before we saw across the aisle were
clothes but it was 4 PM-time to meet the others. Oh, well, he
1 outfil new as well so he won't be jealous, plus he can help push
new stroller. Ray had come back with a wireless modem and a
pair of shoes. Jim drove us back to the harbor. Their
filght leaves tonight. We worked some on the boat installing a
new galley pump while dinner was cooking. Jim stopped at West
Marine so Ray could get a part and chart before returning us to the
marina. They had some left over food and box of laundry soap
which they gave to us.
19: Keehi Harbor to Lono Harbor (Molokai) [41.4 knts,
47.6 statute miles]
Ray paid the harbor bill while I prepared the boat to leave.
motored out of the harbor and raised the sails. There was an
outrigger canoe race which we took pictures of while raising the
sails. There were a lot of sailboats near Waikiki which we
suspected were racing. We passed a small cruise ship which was
tilting slightly from people all standing on one side to watch a
whale. We saw several whales as we sailed to Molokai.
It was a good sail with 10 knot winds mostly. We were able to
sail 7-8 knots. We sailed up to Lono Harbor, an abandoned
harbor. There are 3 other sailboats in here. People are
fishing from the breakwater. It was fairly easy to get into
but we dropped sails and motored in just to be safe. There's a
breakwater on either side of the narrow entrance, a warf in sad
but still with usable ties, a coral sand beach on one side, even a
picnic table in the shade.
After breakfast, Ray pumped the bilges and I did dishes. We
read until late morning when we all took the dinghy to the
We took turns swimming with Richie and lounging on the sand.
Richie brought his bucket & shovel which he had fun with.
walked about a mile up the road with Karen in her new
Lunch was sandwiches & fruit. We took several pictures
today. We were lounging on the boat while Richie took a nap
a guy rowed over and invited us to their boat for dinner. His
name is Nathan and his friend is John. They were supposed to
deliver their boat from Honolulu to Taiwan, but discovered the keel
bolts were loose and the boat took on a lot of water on the way to
Molokai so they are staying here until the owner decides what to
do. Dinner was baked potatoes, stir fry and big chicken.
Funny since Ray was wondering how to catch a wild chicken for
dinner. Also 2 bottles of wine (1 they had, 1 we
It was a nice visit. They said we could borrow their rental
tomorrow to expore the island. The were talking of wanting to
to Maui so we may head there next to give them a lift since their
isn't going anywhere soon.
After oatmeal breakfast, we packed a few things and rowed to shore
where we borrowed a rental car. The keys were in it where they
said they would be. We drove up the dirt road into Lodge, a
village where we went to a store for bread, butter and a
Then we got onto the paved Rte 160 to the main city. Richie
asleep so we kept driving. It was a nice drive. The road
was narrow and got more so by the end it was one lane but still
paved. Drove back to the city where Ray dashed off an e-mail
before we returned to the boat. Saw several mongoose today
the road. Got back at 3 just as the guys wer borrowed the car
from returned from their hike to a ship wreck. The boat was
hot from being shut all day. We laid around and read before
spaghetti dinner after sunset. The guys came over and we
finalized plans to go together to Maui on Wednesday. The car
a yellow Chevy Cavalier. We bought gas for it, seemed the
we could do since if we had to rent it for a day it would have been
least that much plus gas! Lunch was leftover chicken and fruit
from last night.
Ray went into town with John and Nathan to make phone calls and
e-mail. Becca has arrived in Maui. We took turns
in the afternoon. Nathan and John had us over for drinks and
sausages for dinner. They will be over at dawn so we can get
early start to Maui tomorrow.
23: Lono Harbor to Lahaina (Maui) [34 kts, 39.1
John and Nathan arrived at first light. Everyone helped
the boat and we were underway around 7 am. Breakfast was teh
of the oatmeal. Not much wind for sailing but we gave it a
try. John brought a fishing pole but even though we had 2
out all day had no luck. Saw lots of whales and a shipwreck
lanai. Motorsailed in the afternoon and arrived at Lahina
5 pm. John helped us pick a spot to anchor. He went
snorkeling and found an old mooring which we tied to as well as
out the anchor. I made potato salad while Ray rowed them
ashore. We will try to find Becca tomorrow. We walked to
the mall where Richie and I had ice cream and then poked around the
bookstore before returning to the boat and going to bed.
Put the motor on the dinghy this morning. Not much gas left so
packed the gas can to get more. We all got in the dinghy and
motored around to the corner to find the Angelique and Becca.
Found the boat and her. She is going to Honolulu for the
to a frisbee tournament and will be back Monday. We then went
the fuel dock which was annoyingsince they only take credit fromt
company as payment, which we didn't have. Ray wlked to the
club to borrow a card. I had to move while he was returning
card since the fuel dock is also the ferry dock and ti came
We returned to the boat and took turns swimming off the boat.
Becca came over around 2:30 to see the boat and arrange meeting
Monday. The water is pretty and clear with turtles swimming
The wind has been increasing all afternoon. We were going to
ashore but it was too windy. Its also raining off and
Tightened teh starboard windows which got rid of all but one
leak. Unfortunately it is int he middle of the bed. Put
towel under the window. Its not leaking much. Set the
traps since Ray heard a mouse again. Richie had croup last
so he and Ray slept outside where it was cooler. He is still
today but not much croup.
The wind is still blowing hard. We broke the mooring this
so are just held by the anchor now. We've been tanking turns
an anchor watch setting up shifts which we will continue until the
lets up or shifts directionso we won't be blown ashore if we loose
anchor. By late afternoon it is blowing 30 and gusting to
40 with no sigh of change. We both watch and help with rice
dinner. Ray will watch 10-2 and I 2-6 am then ray again
6-10. Most of the waves are 3-5 feet but a few larger ones
broken over the boat. The forecast is for the wind to begin
changing tomorrow si it comes out of the east. Hope they are
right. We are down to our last 5 gallons of fresh water.
could all use a bath and do laundry. The trash (diapers
is starting to build up. At least the anchor seems set hard
For a few days, Ray took over keeping the log. He writes:
Took Richie to the beach.
Becca was supposed to arrive;we
turns going to town. Unfortunately, when we finally reached
it turned out she broke a rib in her frisbee tournament and is
We explored a park that had a
terrific Banjion tree in the morning, and in the evening we went
timeshare ad (they talk you into listening to them try to sell a
timeshare to you in exchange for something...we got a very nice
out of it).
Loefflers came over for a very
visit. We took our laundry ashore and the Loefflers gave us
ride to the laundromat, so we got that all caught up. In the
evening we went to the free luau.
Company--we 'picked up' some
and had them out to the boat (for lunch, if my memory serves--I am
writing this 5 years later!). The daughter Paige cut her
rather nastily on some coral while we were snorkeling along the
Spent the day on anchor watch,
reading. Little rocky, winds to 30. Drug anchor about
100'. At dusk we tied off to a moring that we'd drug down
near. Didn't go ashore all day because of the wind.
Lahaina to Ahihi Bay (Maui) [26 kts, 29.9 statute]
Richie and I went ashore for
water. We took the rope off the mooring ball, got the anchor
and were under way by 11. Light winds (figures), calms, and
gusts to 45 with sustained of about 30. Full main and jub
controlled our speed by heading very close into the wind.
blast was coming between the two mountains of Maui, and was only
us for half a mile.
We arrive at Ahihi Bay (on south
Maui) about 3 pm. Anchored in good sand, snorkeled the
make sure it was set properly and then Frankie swam ashore.
Cabbage and carrot and onion and ramen-jerky stir fry for
Yummy! Popcorn for desert. We watched a video (on the
computer) before we went to bed.
Windy most of the day so we spent it aboard reading. Went
snorkeling briefly in the afternoon. Several people swam out
the beach at different times, including a couple who brought beer
wanted to drink it aboard. Ray told them no. A small
anchored briefly by us and thought we were dragging anchor but we
had a lot of scope out and so were swinging on it. Coast Guard
came by later, waved, we waved back, they went away.
April 4: Ahihi Bay to 5 Needles (Lanai) [41.9 kts, 48.2 statute]
We left around 8 am. No wind so we motored. we were going to
for snorkeling at Molokini but there werwe a lot of other boats
so we kept going. Sailed for a few hours before the wind died
again and it got HOT. Motored the S of Lanai to 5
Once we rounded the S side of Lanai we were into a hard headwind but
waves. Passed a samll harbor but decided to go on. Found
small cove at 5 Needles where we anchored. Nice
Little wind, calm, quiet, surrounded on 3 sides by cliffs.
snorkeling before dinner. Watched a movie after dinner, then
Did lots of swimming/snorkeling today. Richie even got dunked
the water. Gave Karen a bath. Ray worked ont eh solar
wiring so we can get rid of the wire going in the compass hole and
mount the compass again. Left over spaghetti for lunch.
Cole slaw, carrots, and stuffing for dinner. Movie and then
bed. Read outside before dark. I fell asleep on the
roof. A bird flew into the wires and fell onto the deck.
put it out of teh wind. Hopefully it will be ok. We
it was a Petrol from looking int he book. It is a sooty grey
color about the size of a tern.
6: 5 Needles to Lono Harbor [17.8 kts, 20.5 statute]
Ray got me up at 8 am. Swells were getting into the cove and
dinghy was now in the breakers. We upped anchor and
the boat a little more toward the mouth of the cove. By 9:30
swell was still in the cove so we decided to leave and go to Lono
Harbor on Molokai. We raised anchor, motored out and put up
jib. Fast sail doing 5-6 with just the jib all day.
and doubled tied across the back of the harbor. Watched
movie before bed.
7: Lono Harbor to Keehi Harbor [41.4 knts, 47.6 statute
Read after breakfast then I swam over to the beach where Ray and
rowed out to meet. I played with Richie inthe shoallows while
carried the trash out. Fund a 5 inch dead crab which I showed
Richie. I swam and the guys rowed back to the boat. We
untied and put up the jib and main reefed to 3rd (smallest)
Sailed up the coast and had tuna with crackers outside for
Raised the mizen at 1330. That increased out speed from 5-6 to
7-9 with occasionally 10. Fun, fast sail the rest of the
day. Large 8-12 foot rolling waves. Arrived at Keehi at
1830. Tied to the dock then had spaghetti for dinner.
Watched the other half of last night's movie before bed.
Ray takes over:
Drove over to the "lost anchor"
beach. Too many waves for diving. I spent the
using the internet.
Last minute shopping. Ray
Frankie returned the rental car and walked back to the boat
April 16 Keehi
Harbor to Keehi Harbor [49 kts, 56.4 statute]
Departed Keehi. We got to
NW end of Oahu and the engine quit with water in the fuel.
and went back to Keehi.
April 17 Left Keehi
Karli visited her brother.
went into Wikiki to do email. We departed about 6 pm.
Sailed with poor wind all night.
April 18 Arrived Nawiliwili
[95 kts, 108 statute]
We arrived in Nawiliwili,
about 5 pm after a very nice sail. 1 day out of Honolulu.
We spent a very nice day on the
by the hotel.
Karli took the day off. I
worked on the ham radio.
We all headed in to the beach (in
front of the hotel) in the dingy. As we approached shore a
turned us sideways, and the next one rolled us over. I
Karen (who was laughing--didn't scare her a bit; probably too
realize the danger) and Frankie helped Richie (he was
Unfortunately the motor was ruined (though we didn't determine
until more than a year later). We spent the rest of the day
'recovering' and searching the beach for stuff that was on the
boat. Our cameras were toast (but, fortunately, not the card
we didn't loose any images), as was Karli's walkman.
Ray walked 2.5 miles up to the
airport and rented a car. Drove to Waimea Canyon (Wow--it is
known as the Grand Canyon of Hawaii for good reason).
sprianed her ankle. We invited the doctor who was there (!)
his mom to dinner, and had a very nice visit with them.
We drove up to the NE end of the
road. Viewed neat falls, caves and pretty beaches including
Hanalei Bay. From 1-3:30 we took Richie to the park.
Visited Morgan "Collins" & Kyle until 6. We ate out for
dinner, on the way back to the boat.
Last day of the car. We
to barking sands beach, looked at the blowhole, bought corn and
and lettuce, etc. Karli did laundry and Ray returned the
car. Frankie took the kids to the beach. We went to a
bakery for lunch.
Ray took the shuttle to town and bought a new camera to replace the
broken one. Back to the boat around 2 pm. Karli went to
town on her own. Frankie stayed with the kids on the boat.
Karli went to town. Ray and Frankie went for a nice dinner at
Duke's Restaurant in the Marriott hotel in the evening, while Karli
watched the kids on the boat.
Karli and Franki caught the shuttle to town. Went to the
then bought groceries. Stopped at a thrift store for books,
Subway for lunch. Caught another shuttle back to the cruise
terminal and then back to the boat.
Showers; Ray and Frankie went to
to get a fuel pump for the engine. On the way back we picked
Spent the afternoon at the
beach. Karli and Frankie went swimming in the pool.
row, as the dingy outboard wasn't fixed yet. On the wya back
stopped by the Black Dragon. Then, after dinner, they came
to our boat and we chatted for an hour or so.
April 30 Nawiliwili
to Honalei Bay [31.7 kts, 36.4
Unfortunately we wound up motoring all day, for the head wind
us around the island. Arrived in Hanalei Bay in the late
afternoon. We anchored behind the reef, but were still in 3'
swells. Good holding though, so no problem In the
we watched South Seas, and thought, hey! We recognized the
in the movie--we were anchored just off it!!
In the morning we all went
ashore. Ray stayed with the kids on the beach while Karli
Frankie walked into town to see if they could find a gas station
all the motoring the previous day we were low on fuel). No
luck. we waited for Karen to wake up from her nap and then
back to the boat. Late in the afternoon Ray swam ashore
was quite a current past the boat, so it was a difficult swim to
dock--but an easy drift on the way back!) to use the phone.
been worried we weren't anchored in a good place so we moved the
May 2 Left Honalei Bay
Left Honalei Bay earling in the morning. Motored along the Na
Coast then SE toward Oahu. Couldn't get ashore due to wind and
waves. Saw tour boats along the coast. Raised sails in
later afternoon, but there was little wind. Ray's birthday
of fresh bread, spaghetti and peanut butter cookies. Saw some
Forward progress slow but steady. Ray got the watermake
working. The water from it tastes good. Saw a huge pod
dolphins and a few whales.
Again, Ray takes over:
Very slow sailing day. No or
light winds all night--only a few miles of progress
Very slow sailing during the day, tacking into a 6-8 knot
headwind. Mid afternoon the wind quit and Frankie and I went
swimming. I worked some on the hull scraping it. Then
motored very slowly (1500 RPM) toward Ko Olina. About 4 pm
engine quit. fuel starvation. So I installed the new
pump. Then we salied...very slowly. After dark there
lot of traffic as we passed Ko Olina and headed toward Honolulu.
May 5 Arrived Keehi Harbor
[156 kts, 180 statute]
We sailed all night in very light
airs. By first light we still had 15 miles to go. When
got within 4 miles we started the engine and motored in. We
up at the fuel dock to get fuel and Karli went off for her day off
while we got fuel. Then we motored down to the temporary
went to get a mooring ball. The harbormaster was busy so we
out on the boat. In the mid afternoon I walked to West
parts and hardware. On the way back he went to Subway and
back dinner. Elmar stopped by about 6:30 and Karli got back
7. We were very nauhty and stayed up talking until 1:30 am
May 6: Keehi Harbor to Lono
Harbor [41.4 knts, 47.6 statute miles]
We left about 8 am for
Sailed close-hauled until in the wind shadow of Molokai and then
motored to Lono harbor. Got the anchor down by 4 pm.
Took a day off to scrape the
hull. Record high temperatures! In the late evening 3
fishing boats and a sailboat from Ketchikan came in for the night.
May 8: Lono Harbor to Ahihi
Bay [57.3 kts, 65.9 statute]
Lono harbor to Ahihi Bay.
Motor-sailed all the way, mostly close-hauled against the 20-25
wind. We had planned on spending the night in La Parouse
bay, but the wind was nasty in it. Movie after dinner of
9: Ahihi Bay to Umiwai Bay Hawaii (big island) [36.1 kts,
I got up at 5 am so we could get across before the wind picked up
the afternoon. It was a good crossing, though (as reported)
fairly rough. We anchored in an open bay called Umiwai
It was good holding in sand, which was good because it was fairly
exposed. Frankie went swimming in the afternoon, and invited
Karli to go with her, but she declined so Frankie went alone while
took a nap.
Tuesday, May 10: Umiwai Bay to Hilo [67.3 kts, 67.3 statute]
We left early in the morning for Hilo. This turned into a
beat into the wind, and we were in a hurry to make it to Hilo
dark. Unfortunately we didn't make it, but we went on into
anyhow. Turned out to be well lit, and we went in under
very slowly, so we didn't have any trouble finding where we needed
be. We anchored in the outer part of the inner harbor.
Sometime during our long beat into the wind we lost the back hatch
the stern. Guess one of those big waves got it.
Dropped Karli off at the airport in the afternoon. She's going
Honolulu for the weekend. Had hamburgers at a drive in for
Drove around the north coast and back on the Saddle Road.
for dinner. Lunch at a mall in Waimea. Got down to 59 on
the drive back through the mountains.
Ray checked email in the afternoon. I went shopping after he
plywood from teh hardware store. Its not marine ply just
ply, but better than nothing. Unfortunately he didn't realize
this until after it was cut so we can't bring it back.
Went to Ken's Pancake House for breakfast then picked Karli up at
airport. Did a few chores then drove to the volcano and then
Kona for diving. Went on 2 dives. The boat operator was
nice enough to watch the kids so we could all dive. The first
dive there was still light along the reef. Lots of fish, even
eel. Had some chicken (KFC they provided) then dove again
dark. Went to 30 feet and saw Manta Rays. They are
huge! Lots of divers down. Use lights to attract the
plankton the rays then come to feed. Ray and I got food
poiosoning and were sick on the way home. Got back to the boat
around midnight. Long day.
Had a discussionwith Karli this morning before going with Ray to Wal
Mart for diapers. Left kids with her. Decided its not
to work having her aboard any more; she isn't doing what we need her
do (watch the kids--out of the whole time she has been with us we've
only gone out to dinner without the kids once) but maybe once a
week. She doesn't want to be here and acts like it--it is like
having 3 kids aboard, not 2. As long as I can handle the kids
while Ray is gone it will work out, and I managed to get Karen
without help, which was what I was most worried about. We told
her when we got back to the boat and she packed and I dropper her
at a hostel in the early afternoon.
Ray comments: we tried real hard
make this work but Karli just didn't even try. Her whole
can be shown by her comment about the absolutely increadible dive
(which she did too): "That was too long a drive to get
Never thanked us for providing her with the opportunity or
anything. Ideally we should have left her with the kids
why we spent the money to bring her over, and paid for her food
everything on the boat) and gone without her.
We did a few chores then drove up to the volcano. Kids
slept. I read signs along Chain of Craters Road and did a
hiking while Ray read a book. Went to Volcano House for our
dinner together before he leaves tomorrow. I called Dad.
Mom is inthe hospital having breathing trouble.
Got an early start on chores this morning. Drove up to Volcano
Park. Walked Devastation Trail with the kids then to Volcano
House for lunch. Drove back to the boat stopping briefly at
store mid-afternoon. Did the last few chores then took Ray to
airport. We extended the car rental until Ray gets back to
it easier for me alone with the kids. Everyone in the harbor
sympathetic and supportive even had offers to babysit
Richie went with a woman on her kayak in the harbor before dinner of
mac and cheese. Finally cleaned the broken glass in the
tonight. Using a rope to raise and lower Karen in her car seat
(withlife jacket on of course) works real well. Richie can
the ladder by himself. Also use the rope to get bags up and
down. Mom is in the hospital again and will be admitted.
Finally talked to Laura. All is fine in Alaska. We
about 15 minutes.
Rained all night, pretty hard at times. As a result the dinghy
was ankle deep in water. After getting kids dressed they
together inside while I used a pot and sponge to bail it out.
Fixed oatmeal for breakfast in a small pot but still made too much
serving. Too used to cooking for 3 I guess. Payed the
harbor bill for the next 10 days then did laundry-3 loads. Had
hot dogs and juice for lunch. At the library we read 4 books
went to the fruit market. I set up a play date for Richie late
afternoon while I chatted with their moms. The live-aboard
families had a pot luck tonight since several will be leaving in the
next few days. Richie didn't eat. He just played with
Jocelyn (age 7) and Lolo (age 3) all evening. I brought banana
bread which Richie helped make by smashing the banana.
Richie woke up at 6 am. When I told him to go back to bed
it was too early he said "Sun's up. It's not too early."
played quietly until 9:30 then got me up fo rthe day. Left the
boat about 10:30 and visited until after 11. We were going to
zoo but Richie fell asleep in the car. Called Ray and Dad at
2:30. Mom is still in the hospital. All is fine with
Ray. Went to the park in Kurtistown so Richie could play and
Karen nurse. Bought groceries. Richie wouldn't eat
since breakfast and I was hungry so we ate at Taco Bell.
and talked at the harbor for an hour or so then came to the boat for
bed. They are loading the cattle onto the barge now.
thing to wake up to this morning--moo moo and the smell. Glad
are anchored rather than on the wall, it was real bad there since
were parked just beyond the bathroom.
Slept until 8:30 after feeding Karen at 6. I put her back in
car seat (she slept the night beside me on the bed) and awoke with
Richie beside me. We drove to Kurtistown park for an hour then
lunch and the kids napped while I read at the volcano. It was
there but 90 when we left the harbor. Stopped at the park for
another hour on the way back to the boat. Stir-fry over white
rice for dinner. Relaxed and read until bed. Called
Dad. Mom is still in the hospital but responding good to the
Richie woke up at 6:30 hungrey. He was very fussy until I
got him to take a nap at noon. I read for an hour then napped
an hour. Called Ray. Had to go to the laundromat since
the phones were in use by cruise ship staff. We then drove to
park in Kurtistown. No other kids there so we left after Karen
ate. We then drove to a play park in Hilo near the
firestation. It was much nicer. Its got a nice fence,
grass, playground, clean bathroomand benches in the shade.
better. No alcoholics like at Kurtistown in the
Its also closer so I think we found our park. Found the 2
bottles left for me. Now I have 3 big bottles with
Hope they will last since the plastic is flimsy. The first
lasted 2 days for drinking. I can use the jugs for cooking and
washing. I've already used the first 5 gallons since Ray
left. We also have 3 Gatoraide bottles in the car for driving,
the park, etc. Doctored all our sores with Betadine before
bed. Richie's fingertip is very sore. His elbow is
but the scabs keep coming off his knees. Hope they don't
scar. My heel is very sore. Can't put much weight
on it. Can't see a cut so probably got a splinter or something
it. Bed at 9:30.
Gave the kids a shower. What a disaster--Karen doesn't fit in
sink pan anymore. The handicap bench in the shower is broken
washed her in the sink and she screamed the entire time.
wanted to play in the sink while I was sashing her and he was
fussy. Finally got her clean then took a shower with
Richie. His finger started bleeding and that made him even
fussy. Went to Subway for lunch then to the zoo. by then
the kids were pretty tired and fell asleep in the car. Parked
an overlook and read while they slept. Then to the park.
Called Dad ont eh way back to the boat. Mom is not doing
good. She was put into the cardiac ICU this afternoon.
doctors had to shock her heart because it was beating off
She's now in a light coma. No one's sure what's going to
next. She's too weak to operate on which is what normally
with this type problem. The valve is not shutting and so lets
blood flow backwards. I'm scared and never felt more
Ray's in Alaksa and I have no frieds here, just the kids who are
already stressed missing their Daddy. Tried to call Laura but
no answer. Got a few cute pictures at the zoo and park today.
Mom is slightly better but but still in ICU. Called Ray.
has a small cold. I gave him the list of veggies I want for
greenhouse. Drove around the entire island today. Since
was dark we drove to the overlook to see the lava glow when we went
the park. Got back at 10:30. Bought a baby bathtub and a
few other things for the kids at Goodwill.
Richie won't eat lunch and little breakfast so is fussy all
Went to the bank main office but the line was long and slow so we
and went to the branch by the library which had no line. Got
$200. After the kids nap, we went to the library. Richie
wanted to do math. I found a number book and was looking for
another when Richie got a book and proudly announced we were doing
today. It was another counting book! Drove the Saddle
in the afternoon. Rice and ravioli for late dinner. It
rained off and on all day. It was raining so hard at 4:30 this
morning I couldn't see accross the bay. The rain woke up Karen
and I it was so noisy. Needless to say I had to bail out the
dinghy this morning. Its hot and muggy on the boat tonight.
I couldn't remember when the harbor needed to be paid so I paid
the 11th. We then drove to the volcano. It was raining
of the day. We took showers this morning. I put Richie
the shower while I bathed Karen. Her tub worked great.
Called Ray and Dad. All is fine in both places. Rented 2
movies The Incredables and 13 Going on 30. Watched Incredables
but the battery was getting low so we went to bed instead of
the second one. Mac & cheese with boiled carrots for
Sweet rolls and tea for breakfast. Downloaded the camera, did
dishes and general cleaning this morning. One of the wires
loose from the solar connection so I took them apart, cleaned off
corrosion I could then re-twisted them. That got 1.5
Not great but better than nothing. I also wrapped tape around
so it won't come apart again. It has been raining a lot last
days so I pumped the bilge but the pump clogged. Had to clean
the remains of the oil cloth to fix it. Watched the other
movei. Had a picnic lunch at the volcano then drove to the
zoo. Got there just before the petting zoo closed.
got to pet a cow, pony, nene and a duck. They had 2 mongoose
cages. They are neat. Their coat is actually 2
shades of brown. Looked at the white tiger and water buffalo
left. Went to the grocery store and market. Bought 3
Ono filets for dinner with fresh green beans. Stopped to have
root beer float on the way to the car. We returned the movies,
went to the park and a drive because the kids fell asleep.
2 water bottles. Richie had a fit because I forgot his can of
juice in the car. Relaxed before bed. All in all, a
Richie woke up begging to do math this morning so we spent 45
doing math. We matched numbers and shapes, counted macaroni
drew lines around nummbers. Went for a drive. Called
Ray. Tried a few times to call Dad but it was always
Pizza Hut for dinner. Went to the park. Richie went out
gat by himself so we left. Not enough power for more than 10
minutes of lights tonight. Flashlight worked for another 5
it quit too. Good thing it was almost bedtime anyway!
5/30: Memorial Day
Puttered around the boat this morning working on the solar
Not sure if I did any good or not. Had a small brown bird
(finch?) come into the cabin a few times this morning. He'd
on the door then hop to the sink and fly to the counter then leave
awhile before returning. Richie did math again. Called
Florence to get Ray's hotel info. Went to the volcano and the
kids napped then drove up Mona Loa. It is a one lane, narrow,
winding road most of the way up. Very pretty since it goes
through the forest with trees touching overhead. Stopped at
fire station by the park and Richie got a tour of the fire turck and
ambulance. Then walked to the park. The boat was sitting
funny so I had another boat watch the kids while I snorkeled.
was ok. Tried to make mac & cheese but Richie distracted
as I was drainin the noodles. The went in the sink. I
them out. Tichie had a fit but don't think he will pester me
cooking again. He had the last few noodles still in the pot,
bread, and half a banana for dinner and I had the other half.
think my not eating upset him and made him realize his actions have
consequences. He distracted my cooking dinner so no
I wasn't hungry anyhow.
Pancakes and papaya for breakfast. Bailed out the dingy.
That seems to be the routine - play, breakfast, bail dinghy, play
late morning then leave. Not enough power for lights
tonight. Hope for sun tomorrow.
Ugh! Richie wouldn't eat lunch or take a nap so he was extra
fussy all day. Went to the doctor this afternoon about my
heel. He perscribed antibiotic, told me to soak it in epsom
and come back Friday plus got a tetnus shot. Not enough power
lights again tonight.
Richie had a good appetite today. Called Ray. We got
up on the time. He wasn't there the first try but was when I
called again an hour later. Gave the outside of the boat a
this morning using the deck brush from the dinghy. It came
except the rub mark from Ko Olina. The red nav light was on
I got back so I asked the couple from Gambit to come over while I
inside just to be sure everything was ok. Looked like someone
came aboard, looked around then left because little things were out
place. Nothing broken or missing. Cherios for dinner
Started the motor. It ran 5 minutes then quit after making a
funny squeal. Wouldn't start again. Karen got her
shots. Went back to the doctor about my heal. He cut
the dead skin then dug around and pulled out a tiny piece of glass
about the size of a pin head. Feels much better. Not its
just sore. Guess the glass was pretty deep which is why it was
still in the re. Richie was very well behaved today.
to teh volcano so he could run while I fed Karen. I was
mashed potaoto and gravy so we went to Ken's for dinner. Yummy
pineapple upside down cake with passion fruit sauce for
Kinda expensive but its been a hard day and Richie was being
good. Cleaned inside the main cabin and bathroom this
morning. Nothing missing. Only 1 other boat at anchor
Gambit moved over to the wall this afternoon. (Ray notes: 'the wall' was an area
you could tie up to shore. Most boats chose to do this, only
few anchored out permanently. There was only limited room
though, so if there were a lot of boats in the harbor more had to
anchor out. We never did tie up to the wall, once we got in
routine it seemed more trouble to move, and we felt fine where we
at.) I had enough power for 1 light tonight.
Things to tell Ray tomorrow:
- AT&T recharge fee for calling card
- Motor quit, strange squeal, won't stay running
- Karen shots ok
- My heel ok, removed glass, still finishing meds
I couldn't sleep last night so I did the most boring yet quiet chore
could think of--bailing the bilge in the bathroom. It has no
so I had to use a pot and sponge. It was half full of water -
glad to get rid of it. Cornbread muffins for breakfast.
Made a macaroni salad from Richie's leftover turkey for lunch.
bit of sun this morning allowed the battery to get charged.
the motor again. It started fine but quit right away.
Rain all day so we stayed on the boat. Richie didn't like
it. He took a nap in the afternoon after crying and screaming
over an hour. He was so tired! Poor boy still can't just
lie down and sleep when he gets too tired. The rain quit
after his nap so we took the garbage ashore and got water.
Started raining again at dinner.
Called Ray at 930 am. Had to get everyone up and ready
early. We have been lazy in the mornings not leaving until it
gets hot around noon. Decided to try the other
It was bigger and cleaner but also busier. Richie wanted to
but couldn't because of all the people. He got upset. I
upset because he kept going around the corner out of sight.
picked up on it and got upset. Finally when only half the
was folded a lady says to me about karen crying "Mom, she's loosing
patience". That was teh last straw. I said to her "She's
not the only one!" We packed and left. The cleaner area
wasn't worth the emotional stress. We won't go back
Got gas then Richie asked to go to the volcano so he could take a
in the car. Picked up a woman hitch-hiking who wanted to go to
the volcano. She is from Oslo. Spent the rest of the day
together showing her around. Came back to Hilo for pizza then
back up to the volcano to see the glow. Almost 11 pm when we
back to the boat so I left the laundry in the car.
Gave Richie a haricut and trimmed my bangs this morning then went to
Subway for lunch. Richie wasnted to go to Kona. We got
about 20 miles past the volcano park when the car died going up a
hill. Had to use the emergency brake to stop. No idea
happened. Got it started again after about 5 minutes.
Luckily there was no traffic and a bit of a shoulder to get off onto
before the steering locked due to no power. Turned around and
drove carefully back to Hilo. Everytime it shifted it bucked
badly plus it had no power and running real low RPM.
got 35-40 uphill. It overshifted once and went into the red
I had to use the emergency brake to slow down when going
downhill. Returned it to the airport and got a Cavalier (red)
instead. Loaded all our stuff and the kids into it then
it was more expensive than the other one even though the new one
issmaller. I asked the clerk why. She wasn't sure how to
credit the difference but rather than just 3 days of new car she
something up which got us a refund of over $200. Plus a fuel
credit for both cars so we don't have to return it full of
Initially all I asked for was 1 fee day since I wasted teh day to
it back. I like the $200 plus fuel credit better though :).
Ugh. 2 am and I can't sleep. Doesn't help that the
above the bunk started leaking again. Read for awhile. I
like it here. None of the nightmare scenarios about being on
boat alone with 2 young kids have come to be. Everyone is very
friendly, helpful and understanding. Looking forward to Ray
getting back though. The battery is again taking a charge
slower than before). The 3 new water bottles keep me in
water so I haven't had to fill the 5 gallon jugs yet but they are
getting low. Right now my concern is the engine but the anchor
holding and no big weather is predicted. If teh sun comes out
tomorrow I will caulk the cracks on the deck to hopefully stop the
leaks. Still slowly loosing weight. Lost another pound
week and 10 or so lince leaving Alaska. Only 12 more to loose
until my drivers license won't lie. Drinking a coup of mocha
Karli left. Hope it helps me to get to sleep. The seats
the other car are more comfortable so perhaps I can nap when the
do in the car tomorrow. Off to bed again. Wish me
luck. If not, I have lots to read.
After lunch we drove to the volcano then toward Kona. We spent
hour at a state park relaxing. Dinner was at the Manago
Hotel. We split a pork chop dinner since it comes with
The boat is infested with tiny fruit flies I can't seem to get rid
them no matter how clean I keep the cabin and do dishes.
Hopefully they will go away once we start sailing again and get away
from land. We are anchored so close to the shore here that a
fisherman's line landed onthe boat this morning when he cast!
Got up early to pick up Ray at the airport. We then drove to
Volcano House for a yummy buffet breakfast. Even Richie at a
lot. Went grocery shopping and planned the repairs we need to
done before leaving for Alaska. Went with the family from
to Ken's Pancake House for dinner. We all walked since they
already returned their rental car. It rained on the way back
we stopped at a diner to wait out the shower. Drove to Waimea
the aafternoon and looked around 2 historic houses on the Parker
Ranch. One is large and fancy with expensive art inside.
The other is old, 2 story entirely of Koa wood inside.
Spent the afternoon at the volcano and had a ncie dinner at Volcano
House. After dinner we drove to look at the lava glows.
Spent the morning working on the boat electrical installing the
control panel and external plug, mounting the propane control panel
(previously we'd been shutting the propane off by hand) and general
wire cleanup. We then relaxed. I made some popcorn and
read. We drove the saddle road to Waimea for dinner, a 4 hour
5 years later, Ray writes:
There is a gap in the log/diary
here until July 5. We spent about another week in Hilo,
on the boat, getting it ready to sail to Alaska, driving around
generally having a nice time. I can recreate a bit of what
from the photos we took:
drove up the Saddle Road and
had a picnic up there. Spent a good bit of the day poking
there and then continued on up and returned via Waimea.
went to the petting zoo in
the afternoon and then Kaumana Caves in the afternoon. The
were neat; we wished we had more time to explore them.
We drove up the Saddle
Road again. Also took photos of Richie climbing the ladder
Frankie hoisting Karen up the wall (to get out of the dingy in the
We returned the rental car
in the morning, and finally left Hilo in the later afternoon,
our arrival at the volcano close to dusk so we could see the lava
pouring into the ocean. It didn't disapoint us. We didn't approach very close (maybe
half a mile), we'd heard the water is very hot when you get close,
also the lava generates chlorine gas. We spent that night at
doing our usual shifts.
spent the day at sea, and
that night too.
6/22 [Hilo to
Lono Harbor 253.5 kts, 291.5 statute] We anchored in Lono
Molokai and were beset by bees! We were quite disappointed;
planned to spend a day or two here, but the bees drove us away!
[Lono Harbor to Keehi
Harbor 41.4 knts, 47.6 statute miles] Due to
the bees (which at least
went away overnight) we left and had a great sail to Honolulu
We spent this time getting
ready for the sail to Midway and Alaska; installed the autopilot,
ordered 2 new mast wires, etc.
Visited the Biship's Museum,
which has some great pre-contact Polynesian artifacts.
Made a last trip to Sam's
club. It fully loaded the dinghy to get all our food
had two mast wires that were
going bad, so I climbed to the top of the mast and replaced them.
we'd driven by the zoo the
day before, Frankie and I had tried to discuss going for a visit
without letting Richie know that was what we were discussing by
spelling 'Z O O'. Didn't work--he knew how to spell zoo, and
piped up "are we going to the zoo?"!! So we just had to
it...turned out to be a real nice zoo.
Brent and his wife came and
visited us, and in the afternoon we went to the Polynesean
Center. If we'd realized we the ticket was good for 2 days
would have come sooner, but we didn't. And we had to return
rental car early the next day.
Did the last minute fresh food shopping this morning. I also
a new pair of shoes since the old ones have worn out soles and hurt
feet. We grabbed lunch from Wendy's drive through (Richie's
choice). Ray dropped us and the stuff off at the dock then
returned the car. It was a little late but they didn't charge
overtime. We spent the rest of the afternoon organizing and
putting stuff away. Before sunset, Ray went up the mast and
on the other new mast shroud. Elmar came over for dinner and
stayed until almost 11 pm. We saw 2 firework shows around
For our trip from Hawaii back to Alaska, please see the
The current copyright laws protect
this page, even though not specifically copyrighted.
However if you want to use portions
it feel free to do so, though I would appreciate it if you would
acknowledge my authorship.
Last messed with summer 2007.